Abstract
ALL through the nineteenth century and well into the twentieth, mathematicians studied the problems suggested by the generation and propagation of waves on the surface of the sea and other bodies of water. But during all this time there was very little scientific observation of waves, and practically none of it was by means of specially designed measuring instruments. Oceanographers paid very little attention to the details of the phenomena.
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PROUDMAN, J. Ocean Surface Waves. Nature 164, 742 (1949). https://doi.org/10.1038/164742a0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/164742a0