Abstract
SOME aspects of sea waves, breaking, the effects of tidal stream, and growth and subsidence, have recently been noted in NATURE1. The effects of the movement of the particles of wave-disturbed water, before the waves become much distorted from their trochoidal state, will now be discussed. Deep water conditions will be assumed to start with. But opportunity will first be taken of modifying a statement on page 584 of May 23. It was suggested that EL, the total energy of a wave, might be taken as an index of striking force. It would be more correct to say 'an index of the effect of striking force', or damage done.
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References
NATURE, 148, 226 (1941); 149, 219 and 584 (1942).
"Admiralty Manual of Navigation", 1, 182 (1938).
Rayleigh, "Collected Papers", 6, 8.
NATURE, 149, 219 (1942).
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UNNA, P. SEA WAVES: THE WATER MOVEMENT. Nature 150, 581–582 (1942). https://doi.org/10.1038/150581a0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/150581a0