Abstract
Wave breaking is believed to be important in air–sea interaction. Laboratory measurements1 suggest that the momentum flux from the atmosphere to the ocean may be significantly enhanced by breaking and recent field measurements2–4 have demonstrated the important role of breaking in bubble generation and gas transfer. It has long been speculated that the loss of momentum flux from the wave field due to breaking could act as a source of momentum for current generation5 and Mitsuyasu6 has drawn attention to the large discrepancy between the momentum flux from the wind and that carried by the waves, suggesting that the loss may be due to wave breaking. Here we present what we believe are the first well-controlled laboratory measurements of the momentum flux lost by wave breaking. These measurements are consistent with Mitsuyasu's hypothesis and recent measurements of wave growth, and support the conclusion that wave breaking plays an important role in momentum transfer across the air–sea interface.
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Melville, W., Rapp, R. Momentum flux in breaking waves. Nature 317, 514–516 (1985). https://doi.org/10.1038/317514a0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/317514a0
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